Tuesday, June 30, 2009

June 30, Day 11

León to Hospital de Órbigo (31km): Back on track.

After our break yesterday, A and I hit the trail again, aches and pains pretty much gone. Amazingly, the blisters on my toes didn´t hurt at all today - a true miracle, really (sorry, it´s really hard not to bring up the religious references here). Both of us were feeling so great that we ended up killing 23km in a little over 4 hours, even in spite of the fact that we started an hour late from León this morning. Seeing as how it was only 11am when we got to Villadango and we weren´t tired at all, it really didn´t make sense to us to just stop, especially since alburgues open at 1pm. Also, I feel kind of bad saying this, but the town was kind of a dump. So we took lunch at the next town 1.5km further down the road, then pushed on all the way to Hospital de Órbigo, and here we´ll be for the night.

Since arriving here, A and I killed a whole watermelon and I´ve been working on a bottle of rosé all by my lonesome. I´m happy to report this is my cheapest bottle of wine by far - 0.89€! (The 0.79€ wine I found was boxed wine and there´s still enough wine snob in me that I haven´t gone there yet.) The alburgue we´re staying at is a cute little place run by the German confraternity of St. James. It´s a bit rundown, but has a cozy little courtyard with a couch that A and I quickly monopolized for a good part of the afternoon. As for the town itself, jere´s a fun fact: it´s home to one of Spain´s oldest and longest medieval bridges, which itself was the site of a famous jousting tournament that took place in the 1400s. Apparently, a Spanish knight named Don Suero de Quiñones was rejected by a woman and felt the need to prove his manhood by winning at least 300 jousting matches, which of course he did. There´s still a jousting field by the bridge, which I´m assuming gets some use time and again from the odd Renaissance faire that passes through. So that´s that.

I think it´s going to be an early night again - bed by 9:30 so we can try to do another 30-odd km´s tomorrow. I can´t get over that I go to bed before it´s even dark. Whoohoo, pretty crazy vacation, yeah?

Hasta luego for now!

June 29, Day 10

Burgos to León (181km): Bussed to León, taking it easy.

June 28, Day 9

San Juan de Ortega to Burgos (23km): Fiesta in Burgos. Feeling incredibly fortunate!

June 27, Day 8

Recidila del Camino to San Juan de Ortega (36km): Thirty six kilometers. We rock!

June 26, Day 7

Azofra to Recidilla del Camino (26km): One week in, hitting our stride.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

June 25, Day 6

Navarrete to Azofra (22km): Fastest time yet...otherwise blissfully uneventful

For some reason, it´s been taking A and I about an hour to wake up and pack up before we can hit the road each day. With all that OPIM we´ve taken in b-school, that´s just unacceptable, considering how very little we´re carrying (I mean seriously, I only brought 2 pairs of shoes and even left my blowdryer at home!)

Anyway, I´m happy to report we shaved our time in half and we´re out of the alburgue by 6, even though we ¨slept in¨until 5:30 this morning. We arrived at our final destination, Azofra, at 12pm and have been chilling since. Today´s walk was yet again easy, which I noted in my journal today (though of course, the minute I wrote that down, it started to rain and it hasn´t rained thus far). It´s funny, because of the spiritual aspect of this trip, it´s almost like a lot of us pilgrims are expecting each day to be super physically and emotionally demanding so that we can achieve profound meaning from the experience. So when our day is pretty easy, it´s easy to be disappointed because we feel like we´re not suffering enough and therefore not deriving meaning from the journey. But then I realized there was something to learn from such an uneventful day like this - to BE grateful when nothing bad has happened and things went smoothly. I spend so much of my energy avoiding bad things in my life, I´ve forgotten to just sit and appreciate when things do go right. So lesson learned today, no news is good news and that´s today´s blessing in disguise.

Speaking of blessings, the neat thing about the alburgue we´re staying at is that each room just has 2 beds each. When you´re used to dorm rooms that cram 8 or more strangers in a room and you´re trying to sleep with a bunch of snorers around you, stuff like this becomes a real luxury. Yes, such is the pilgrim´s life - it really just revolves around two things: how bad was the snoring in your room the night before and how bad are your blisters today? And you know what? I love that life is that simple.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

June 24, 2009 - Day 5

Viana to Navarette (21 km): A walk in the park. Literally.

Woke up at 5 am, left the alburgue (pilgrim´s hostel) at 6. Got to watch the sunrise as we entered the La Rioja region, leaving behind Navarra. First city we walked into was Logroño, capital of this major wine-producing region of Spain. Once we crossed through town, the majority of our hike today took us on this impressively long park trail (about 6 km) outside the city environs. Feet felt great pretty much the whole way through, so today´s hike was literally and figuratively a walk in the park.

Arrived in town at 12:45pm and made myself yet another bocadillo for lunch (today´s creation: chorizo pamplona extra with cucumbers and roasted peppers). Washed it down with a nice cold bottle of 0.80€ Ambar Export beer (can´t get over how cheap beer and wine is here!)

Tonight, think I´ll try some tapas and practice ordering in spanish at Bar Deportivo, next door to our albergue. Thanks to Aleks´constant encouragement, I´m feeling a bit braver about practicing my español.

Adios for now!

June 23, 2009 - Day 4

Sansol to Viana (11km): Got lost. Found Sawyer.

Got lost on the camino today (totally my bad). Ironically, it was right when Aleks and I were talking about my past backpacking experiences and I was explaining to her how you find your way on trails out in the wilderness. Go figure. Had to backtrack about a kilometer to find our way back, but we eventually made it to Viana.

Speaking of Lost, we found Sawyer on the Camino! Or at least his Belgian doppleganger. As soon as I figure out how, I´ll try to post a pic so you can see what I mean.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

June 22, 2009 - Day 3

Estella to Sansol (28 km): Overexerted ourselves. But stumbled upon Sansol.

June 21, 2009 - Day 2

Puente la Reina to Estella (22 km): Highs and lows (emotional and topographical).

June 20, 2009 - Day 1

Pamplona to Puente La Reina (24 km): The yellow arrow told us to.

June 19, 2009 - Day 0

Barcelona to Pamplona (via autobus): Made it to the alburgue. Barely.

June 18, 2009 (T-Minus 1 Day)

Barcelona: Gran Via de las Corte Catalones

Saw the Sagrada Familia (wow)...strolled up and down Las Ramblas...had tortilla espanola y cafe con leche for breakfast at La Boqueria...had my first bocadillo (I´m sure the first of what will be many on this trip)...went on a 2 hour hunt for good cheap paella...checked out the beach at La Barceloneta...and just generally tried to cram in as much of Barcelona as we could in one - yes, one, day.

Kept ending up on Gran Via de las Corte Catalones to get to all these different places. And that´s 6 words, so there you go.

June 17, 2009 (T Minus 2 Days)

En-route to Spain: Jenkintown -> Philly -> Newark -> Philly -> Barcelona. Exhausting!

I met Aleks in Philly July 17, and the next day we caught a flight together to Barcelona. Searching for cheap flights, we found a ticket to Barcelona on US Airways with the catch being you had to fly from Newark to Philly to Barcelona. Being the brilliant MBAs that we are, we figured we could just hop on at Philly - no problemo, right? Apparently, that´s not how it works, or so all our friends said.

So, rather than risk losing our seats on the PHL to BCN leg, we ended up playing it safe and getting up at the butt crack of dawn to take the train to Jenkintown to Center City to Trenton to Newark International Airport, to catch our 11:20 am flight to PHL, arriving at 12:30 pm in PHL. And then we waited...until 6pm when our flight from PHL departed for Barcelona. Yup, that´s right, we had a six hour layover in Philly. How crazy is that???

And that´s how our adventure began. Let the craziness begin!

Preface

439 miles with my BFF. ¡Olé!

From June 20 to June 13, I´ll be walking the Camino de Santiago with Aleks and here´s where I plan to post updates on where we are so y´all can follow along on our adventures. To ensure timely updates and to make this fun, Aleks and I have decided to summarize each day in 6 words or less, (with some added commentary here and there if we feel like it).

I realize we´re a bit behind, so I´ll try to catch you up on the first 4 days. Here goes...